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Jumat, 22 April 2016

Best selling wood projects - Building a Rosewood Hall Table Part 1

Best selling wood projects

Best selling wood projects


The ukulele is progressing, but has gone on the back burner while this commission is completed.

Preparing Stock 

For this hall table I will use some very old Australian Rosewood.
It was felled over twenty years ago and has sat around all that time waiting to be turned into something beautiful.
Hope I do it justice.

 

The exterior of the rosewood has deteriorated but the timber underneath is quite lovely.


The bandsaw makes short work of ripping down to size.
Here I am cutting the legs.


Note the push stick on the right for assisting with the feeding when using the fence on the bandsaw.
Saves losing fingers if things slip up.

Here is the slab that will become the top of the table.

Already some interesting grain is evident and this will need to be watched to prevent tearout when working with tools.

There is a natural edge to this slab which I will preserve as the leading edge of the table top.
It is weather beaten and grungy, so it will need refining when the time comes.

In its present shape this slab is too long and will be trimmed to size, being careful to remove as much cracking and checking (see far end)   as possible.

Next step will be to mill the legs.  These will be square in section at first but will be tapered later.

The four legs are all 45mm square to begin with.

First step will be to cut these to length.

Before tapering, the mortices that will house the rails will be cut.  It is much easier to do this with square stock than with tapered stock.

Also, the rails need to be housed in mortices that are square to the rail ends.

The grain in the legs is not straight, and has a distinct sloping attitude to it.  I will use this to advantage when it comes time to taper the legs.  The tapers will follow the grain.

Next step is to cut out the front and back rails as well as the side rails.

These will be the same width and thickness.





Here I have cut more rails than I need.

there is some checking towards the ends of the individual timbers and the grain varies with the timbers used.

There is also some significant sapwood that shows some signs of  insect larval damage.

I want to use the sapwood in the design if possible, but will carefully remove any damaged sections first.













The rails need truing and the bandsaw marks need removing from the edges and faces.
Here I am using a Stanley Number 31 transitional plane as my jointer.


The edges are checked for square against a strong light.  As you can see, this edge still needs work.

The Legs


Once the legs have had their mortices cut - I use a router for this - then the legs can be tapered.
A rough taper is cut on two faces of each leg on the bandsaw.


The legs are then smoothed using the Stanley jointer once more.


Once smooth, the edges need to be dressed to prevent splintering and the base of each leg chamfered.


This chamfer stops the bottom of the leg splintering, and also creates a shadow line under the foot - adding a little elegance.

In the next part, I will dress the table top and gather all of the parts before final assembly.
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Selasa, 19 April 2016

Best selling wood projects - Making A Boat Paddle Tenor Ukulele Part 5 Catching Up

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Best selling wood projects


Oh my, where has all this time disappeared to?
So much to do around here and the ukulele build has been on the back-burner.
Our home is a large log cabin construction with a fully painted exterior.  The LOML, in her spring cleaning mode, started an outside spruce-up that turned into a full exterior house clean. A huge job!

We last painted the exterior in 1996-97..............
You can see whats coming...............  Now that it is clean lets re-paint, she said.  OK, I replied.  I really love painting .............. hahaha

 (this male king parrot landed on my painting trestle)

Soooooo ........... guess what has occupied my leisure hours of late - we have been painting, and painting and painting ...............

Oh, there was also the rehearsals for the concert by the Tele Point Ukes and Singers.......................

.............and the concert itself..................

trips to Young.................

.............. and Sydney - and my sons engagement to wonderful Edwina .............

........the party ..............

........... gardening .........

................. lots of gardening .........

...... babysitting ............... lots of babysitting ............

............ end of year parties and wrap-up dinners, as well as.........
..........school concerts .................

(......everybody was Kung-Fu fighting ......................)

.................. and woodwork........... well, bits and pieces.
I have found some time to cut and shape the gusset blocks for the ukulele body as well as lay out the fretboard and make a start on the neck.
Ill get back to that in my next post.

Soooooo ........ we are back up to speed.
 Every blessing to you and yours for this season of Xmouse.
May you find some peace...... and in doing so, add a little more joy to the world.




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Jumat, 15 April 2016

Best selling wood projects - Making A Boat Paddle Tenor Ukulele Part 2 The Mould

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Best selling wood projects


The Mould

To build up the thickness required,  it is usual to laminate pieces to form the mould.
Two pieces will suffice in this case because of the width of the starting material - meranti.

Glued and screwed together here is the finished mould in two parts - necessary so that they can be easily removed after the body has taken shape.



The waste pieces from the middle are important and need to be kept.  These will form the mating parts that support the sides and help them hold their shape until they dry and the glue is set.


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Rabu, 13 April 2016

Best selling wood projects - Making A Boat Paddle Tenor Ukulele Part 7 Neck Preparations

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Best selling wood projects


Long time no uke .....
Where were we?
OK, the body shell sides are  ready and glued in place.
The neck block has to be made to accommodate the neck tenon.
I have chosen Australian cedar for this because of its lightness and strength.
The neck block has to be moulded to fit the shape of the top end of the body - it will also support both the top and back of the uke.

Cutting Out The Neck

I have made up the neck blank from three strips - two of sassafras and one of Australian rosewood.


 One end is cut to leave the middle piece of rosewood.  This will act as the tenon to anchor the neck and body together.


Here is the neck roughly laid out on the laminated blank.


The angle of the headstock to the neck is 15 degrees - easily measured with a protractor and angle gauge


After laying out the neck shape precisely, I cut it out on the bandsaw.


Here are the offcuts and the roughed out neck.  I keep the scraps - they will come in handy later.
All of the remaining shaping of the neck will be done by hand using rasps, spokeshaves and scrapers.

Ill move on to that next.
Happy shavings

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Best selling wood projects - Building a Rosewood Hall Table Part 2

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Best selling wood projects


The Table Top

Once the slab has been sized for the table top, the edges need dressing and squaring.


Once again I use the Stanley 31.  It is as long as a number 8 plane but somewhat lighter to use.
I am appreciating this in my handtools more and more.
Once the plane is taking full length shavings, then the edge is fully clean and flat.


By contrast, the front edge is still a little daggy.
I want to preserve the rough look but there will be a finish on it so the edge needs cleaning up.

I am using a carving chisel to clean out the hollows and to enhance the edge with a "natural" look.


Here is the table-top prior to final sanding.  It will stay this way until after construction is complete.

Layout of the Parts


The four finished legs now are laid out showing their taper.  There is a little sapwood in two of the legs.  I think I will try these at the front.


The four rails are laid out with their tenons almost complete.  There will be a small amount removed from the bottom of each tenon to help the edges cover the joint completely.

The piece on the right front is a strengthening rib for the middle of the frame.
It can be seen in the layout below.


A housing will be cut into the front and back rails to take this strengthening rib.
Note also that the sapwood in the rails shows continuity through the corner.  These rails will form the front and the solid rosewood coloured rail will be at the back.
I like the aesthetics of this arrangement.

Sanding and Finishing

It is much easier to do this before assembly so I try to have most of my surface preparation done prior to glue-up.


Care must be taken with the mortice and tenon areas so that the timber is not sanded out of square - otherwise there will be gaps after glue-up.


The table top will be held in place by buttons and will be fitted last.


Several coats of lacquer - with a light sanding between coats - will be all that is needed to finish the table.



Found the camera - hooray - images added above.
There are only the coats of lacquer to go.
Happy shavings to all.

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Sabtu, 09 April 2016

Best selling wood projects - Making A Boat Paddle Tenor Ukulele Part 6 Sides Front and Back

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Okey-dokey, some time in the shed at last and getting back on track.

Sides
The moulded sides are well and truly dried and are holding their shape quite nicely.
The cutaway section is in two parts and needs some re-inforcing gussets to prevent chipping and to strengthen the joins.  I have chosen a couple of pieces of African blackwood, both for strength and because it matches both the fretboard and the headstock.


These two gussets will be glued in place before the linings are added to the inside.

Here is a view from the inside.


This end block will become the corner of the block that houses the neck.  It will be made from cedar for lightness and strength.
Ill cut a block from this piece of Australian cedar and I will also shape the mortice in it before gluing.  This so much easier to do while the cedar piece is long - it is also safer when using a router.


Gluing Up the Front and Back

The front and the back are made from book-matched thin (2mm) pieces of mango.
Before gluing, each piece has to have its glue-edge perfectly straight.  I do this with a plane on a shooting board.
This timber is not mango, but black wattle - but you get the idea.

The edge-trued pieces are glued together and held in place under tension by nothing more than masking tape.


A flat surface is placed on top to keep the drying skins from warping and this is held down with a small weight.

The finished results are shown with the mango skins dried and flat.


The skin on the left will be the front and that on the right will be the back.

 This skin is most highly figured of the two, and will look best on the back where it will be able to show off its lovely grain to advantage.
The other will have a sound hole cut into it as well as a bridge glued on top.


Finally I have cut some strips from what was left of the mango used for cutting the sides.  These strips will be used for bracing and strengthening pieces on the backs of the front and back skins.

Next time Ill work on the neck.

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